The following is my report regarding observations from my recent site visit with recommendations specific to the Lakes of Keystone Homeowner Association’s current landscaping practices and water conservation initiatives.

Overall Description of Site Visit

Lakes of Keystone community were represented by Terry Malloy and Tom Collins. The community representative indicated their primary concerns are the entrance plantings and design, and how they can have a more Florida-friendly landscape. The present appearance of the landscape is affected by factors such as plant selection, location, and pruning and irrigation practices.

1. Plantings

First Entrance: Thatch at entrance on Sims road was obvious. Thatch is an indication of over watering and over fertilizing. See photo #002. The hedge is heavily pruned and showing stress. Recommendations were to remove the hedge in front of the sign. Maintain the existing juniper, as it is low maintenance and requires little irrigation. See photo #004. The King sago palms are infected with Asiatic scale and are somewhat out of place in the planting area. Recommendation is to remove the sago palms at the entrance. In photo #005 the Ligustrum, Ligustrum japonicum has been severely hedged regularly to keep at the low desired height. This is an example of the plant in the wrong place. Ligustrum’s maximum height can reach 15 to 20ft. Many shrubs in the landscape grow to a large size so they need regular pruning to keep them at the desired size. This will eventually stress the plant and open it up for disease and pest infestation and ultimately death. Not to mention the high maintenance and the unnecessary pesticide applications being applied to try to save the shrub.

If a natural shape has to be altered drastically, it will result in continuing high maintenance situations.

On the opposite side of sidewalk is a lot of turf that requires irrigation for sustainability. If your community is concerned with reducing water usage, consider that turf requires more water than beds with shrubs, or groundcovers. Determine how much turf you really need. Several ground covers and native ornamental grasses were discussed during site visit. Muhly grass, Muhlenbergia capillaries, Asiatic jasmine, Asiatiac jasmine ‘minima’, Trachelospermum asiaticum minima, were a couple ground covers suggested. Other alternatives to turf are listed in the UF Florida-friendly Plant List 2006.’ Trees with roots exposed above ground level, I recommended to plant over the area with Asiatic jasmine, Trachelospermum asiaticum minima. Once established this ground cover is virtually maintenance free. This will help with the erosion and wash out of ground cover that is piled on top of the mound around the trunk.

To break up a long linear line, such as in photo #005 a few upright or taller growing plants incorporated provides complementary contrast in relation to other plants and design elements.

Willow Lake Drive Entrance: See CD photo #010, Recommendation was to remove the Lorapetalum, Loropetalum chinense ,add a low growing juniper in the top level and switch to micro irrigation.

2. Turf: It was unsure if there are deed restrictions regarding type or minimum of turf. St. Augustine is predominant in the community. Remember to never remove more than one-third of grass blade at a time. A deeper root system develops by maintaining taller heights. Deeper roots are closer to moisture and less likely to become stressed during droughts. Mowing height and root depth are directly related. Certain spots indicated over watering such as the dollar weed and the thatch in photos #008 & #002.

3. Irrigation:

Ideally the turf area and planting beds should be on different zones because of the difference in water requirements for turf and shrubs.

The watering schedule for turf and landscape beds should be adjusted to their different needs. During rainy season the watering frequency can be reduced or completely turned off according to rain amounts. The time to irrigate is early morning between 4AM – 8AM, to allow turf to dry out. I suggest that someone in the association have access or at least have contact information of someone who can cut system on and off manually in case of an emergency. A minimum monthly inspection for broken or leaky sprinkler heads is recommended. Necessary repairs should be performed immediately for water conservation and landscape health. As a general guideline for irrigation: each zone should have an output of approximately ¾” per watering application. Rotors should run 40 minutes and stationary heads run 20 minutes. The calibration of the sprinkler zones may be essential for correct irrigation. Areas using traditional pop up irrigation can be retro fitted using micro irrigation.

Please refer to the enclosed IFAS publication ‘Residential Irrigation System Rainfall Shutoff devices,’ #ABE325, and ‘A Guide to the Basics of Micro-irrigation brochure’.

4. Pruning

Indiscriminate topping of trees ruins their natural form and produces large amounts of growth that is poorly attached and more prone to loss from wind. This is referred to pollarding. It is my recommendation to specify in your contract verbiage to convey selective pruning, no shearing, nor pollarding of Crepe myrtles, Lagerstroemia indica. See photo #027.Only dead or dying fronds on palm trees should be removed. Over pruned palms could attract pest and disease. See photo #009 and fact sheet ENH 853.

Removal of dead wood within plants and trees can and should be done at any time of the year. This landscape practice not only gives the plant a neat appearance but also makes room for new growth and helps eliminate entryways for pests and diseases. Larger growing shrubs that are planted between driveways up against the foundation can out grow the limited space quickly. Proper selection is the key to planting the right plant in the right place. Severe pruning will stress plants eventually opening them up for disease and dieback.

5. Mulching:

Most beds observed had sufficient pine bark mulch. It is recommended to pull mulch 1”-2” away from base of tree trunks and shrubs. The same goes for structures, pull mulch away about 4-6”inches. There are several Florida-friendly mulches available such as eucalyptus, melaleuca, oak leaves, pine straw, and pine bark. Mulch helps retain moisture by minimizing evaporation from the soil, moderates soil temperature, and helps to reduce erosion and weed growth. Mulch 2-3” deep while avoiding piles against tree trunks. Rule of thumb: for every 1 inch of tree trunk there should be 2 feet in diameter of mulch, for trees less than 3 years old. Otherwise, mulch out to the drip line. Mulch with organic material whenever possible. See brochure,” Mulches for the Landscape” and The Florida Yards & Neighborhoods Handbook

6. Fertilization/Pest Control:

Fertilization:

Fertilizer is used to maintain the health of turf and plants. It is recommended to use a slow release fertilizer which makes nutrients available to plants for a longer time versus washing away into storm drains and the aquifer. If applying fertilizers with less that 30% slow-release nitrogen, apply ½ pound of nitrogen per 1000 square foot per application. If at least 30% of nitrogen is slow release, apply 1 pound of nitrogen per 1000 square foot per application. Use fertilizers that are formulated for the predominant tree, shrub or bedding plant. Established shrubs should only be fertilized as needed and only during the growing season. Turf goes dormant in winter months as do other plants. When fertilizing palms use a palm special specifically formulated for palms. In Photo #001 & #003 the yellowing indicates nutrient deficiency. See the Florida Yards & Neighborhoods Handbook.

Pest Control:

Applications of pesticides should be used on an as-needed basis spot treating. Scouting is one of the basic building blocks of Integrated Pest Management, (IPM). This sustainable approach combines biological, cultural, physical and chemical tools in a way that minimizes environmental risks. See ‘Florida Yards & Neighborhoods Handbook’.

7. Invasive or Problematic Plants

A Brazilian pepper and Camphor tree was observed in the community. See photo #006 and the IFAS Assessment list at http://plants.ifas.ufl.edu/assessment/conclusions.html

8. Retention Pond/Conservation Area

To improve the health of ponds it is recommended that native aquatic plant material be planted around the waters edge to act as a buffer and a natural filtering system. This buffer zone would help reduce fertilizer from running directly into the water. If native or aquatic plants are unavailable, do not mow the buffer zone of turf grass. Vehicle oils, silt, fertilizer and chemical runoff flows directly into the retention pond. The pollution runoff is attributing to the green algae growth. Considerations for slow release fertilizers, and micro-irrigation would help reduce such runoff. Information on Southwest Florida Management District’s Community Grant program was provided at site visit. See ‘A Citizens Guide to Storm water Ponds’ brochure.

Recommendation:

Recommendations in this report are based on the Florida-friendly landscaping principles developed by the University of Florida, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (UF/ IFAS), Florida Yards & Neighborhoods Program (FY&N).

My recommendations of changing some current landscaping practices are essential. If the Association agrees with a different approach I can provide you with information on how to achieve this goal. I can further offer to discuss with the contracting landscaping maintenance supervisors my recommendations for landscaping practices such as mowing height, pruning, Integrated Pest Management (IPM), and fertilization and irrigation practices. These, as well as other practices could be specified in the landscaping maintenance contract. See Fact Sheet ‘Considerations for Developing a Lawn and Landscape Maintenance Contract,’ publication #SS-ENH-09 and draft of Florida-friendly Covenants, Conditions and Restrictions.

Recommendations for new landscape:

When renovating the landscape have a design in place. Determine the needs and use of the area. Know the site’s conditions. Test soil for pH and do a site analysis (i.e. sun or shade requirement, maximum width/height, structural limitations).

Choose the right plant for the location. See ‘Florida-friendly Plant List 2006.’

Make sure to check with your local water restrictions schedule for new and existing landscapes.

Lisa Strange, FYN Community Association Coordinator

Hillsborough / Polk County Extension

Polk Co. (863) 519-8677 x 141 Hillsborough Co. (813) 744-5519 x 142